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الخميس، 30 يونيو 2011

يمشون في فلسطين ويكتبون عنها






ارسل المصور الفنان احمد مصلح عدة صور لرحلة صفّا، انشر بعضها، وكذلك التقرير الذي كتبته عنها:
على مسطح صخري، تظلله شجرة خروب ضخمة، تشابكت أوراقها وفروعها مع (عليقة)، جلس مشاركون في رحلة مشي على الاقدام في قرية صفّا غرب رام الله، متفيئين ظلالها، بينما أخذ حسن كراجة، ابن القرية، الداعي للرحلة، ومرشدها، بترديد اهازيج واغاني فلكلورية، تمجد بطولات اهالي صفّا والقرى المجاورة عام 1948، حيث تروى الحكايات، ان مجاهدي تلك الناحية تمكنوا من قتل نحو 300 من عناصر العصابات الصهيونية، التي انتصرت في النهاية، واقامت دولة اسرائيل، التي لاحقت اهالي المنطقة وحاصرتهم بالمستوطنات والجدران.

وكانت القرية من اعمال اللد، حتى النكبة، وفي العهد العثماني كانت مركز ناحية، يقيم فيها مدير يتبعه 22 قرية، ولكنها الان قرية محاصرة.
امتلك كراجة، الذي دعا لرحلته تحت عنوان (عيش صفّا) اسلوبا، في تقديم اغاني بلدته الفلكلورية، جعلت بعض المشاركين يرقصون، بمصاحبة صوته، ويطالبونه بالمزيد، مثيرين جوا من البهجة شارك فيه ايضا بعض المشاركين من اجيال مختلفة مثل المفكر منير فاشة (70) عاما، الذي اظهر جلدا على المشي والفضول المعرفي، اكثر بكثير من الاكثر شبابا من حيث السن.
ويقول كراجة، بان هذه الرحلة، هي الاولى لمجموعة (سفر فلسطين)، وان فكرة الرحلة، انبثقت لديه، بعد مشاركته في رحلات مشابهة لمجموعة سفر خارج فلسطين، فاستخدم وسائل الاتصال الالكترونية، لدعوة اصدقائه ومعارفهم، ليشاركوا في الرحلة، متحملين تكاليف السفر، ورغم انه طلب من كل منهم ان يجلب زوادة طعامه معه، الا ان الكرم الريفي تغلب لديه، واعد وجبات فلاحية سريعة، تناولها الحضور تحت شجرة الخروب، وهم يجلسون على اثار قديمة، يعتقد انها استخدمت كمعاصر للنبيذ.
وسبق استراحة هؤلاء، سيرهم في وادي كفر نعمة، المحاصر في نهايته، بالجدار الاحتلالي الاستيطاني، ونتج عن ذلك قبل سنوات مأساة، ما زال يذكرها اهالي المنطقة، عندما فاضت مياه الوادي، وسحبت معها، راكب سيارة تعطلت على الشارع فوق الوادي، وعثر على جثته بعد ساعات قرب الجدار.
ويهدد التوسع الاحتلالي تل اثري، يُعرف باسم خربة اللوز، ورغم انه لم تُجرى حفريات أثرية منظمة في الموقع، الا ان الكشف السطحي، يبين انه شهد عدة حضارات، ويحوي التل بقايا كنيسة بيزنطية، ومغر، وانفاق، وجدران، وابار.
وتواجه الاثار في المنطقة، تهديدا من لصوص الاثار، الذين يحفرون في الموقع، وحسب كراجة، فان اللصوص يستخدمون الان اسلوبا جديدا، وهو احداث حُفرات في اشجار الزيتون القديمة، والنزول منها الى تحت الارض، وتظهر كثير من اشجار الزيتون المعمرة، بعد تعرضها للاعتداءات.
وخربة اللوزة، ليست الموقع الاثري الوحيد في القرية الغنية بآثارها، وقاد كراجة المشاركين، الى البلدة القديمة، وخرب اثرية ومواقع اخرى، مثل مقام حورية، المهدم، والذي لا يبعد عن السياج الفاصل سوى بضعة امتار، ونفذت سلطات الاحتلال حفريات، غير شرعية، في الموقع قبل عدة سنوات، ونهبت ما عثرت عليه من اثار.
وقال الكاتب تحسين يقين الذي شارك في الرحلة: "من المهم ان يحاول كل مشارك الكتابة عن تجربته وكيف رأى هذه المساحة من فلسطين؟".
واضاف: "فشلت في السابق محاولات تجميع للكتاب والصحافيين، الذين يعنون بالكتابة عن المكان، وارجو ان يتمكن الجيل الجديد من الرحالة من الكتابة وان يكونوا افضل حالا من السابقين".
اما كراجة فيقول: "طلبنا من كل مشارك ان يكتب ولو خمسة اسطر عن رحلته، من المهم ان نمشي في فلسطين ونكتب عنها".

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